The 2005 Pedestal features the peripatetic Michel Rolland. His wine is 80% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Cabernet Franc aged for 22 months in 85% new French oak. Deep crimson-colored, it offers an enticing perfume of toasty new oak, pencil lead, spice box, clove, allspice, red currants and black cherry. Seamless on the palate, the wine has gobs of ripe, savory flavors, well-concealed tannin, excellent aging potential, and a long, pure finish. It will provide much pleasure between 2012 and 2025. Long Shadows is the brainchild of Alan Shoup, longtime CEO of Chateau Ste-Michelle. It is a consortium of seven different labels, each with its own star winemaker who has a 25% share in the brand. The concept is that each “is dedicated to producing a single Columbia Valley wine representing a ‘best of type’ that reflects the winemaker’s signature style.” For the second straight year, every wine in this portfolio has achieved an outstanding rating. For this, the credit goes to Alan Shoup who put it all together. Tel. (425) 467-9398; www.longshadows.com

Consistent with previous releases, this Michel Rolland effort is a soft, silky, smoky wine that introduces itself with round cherry fruit and then charges ahead with layers of licorice, citrus, coffee and rock that enliven the finish. There is plenty of tart raspberry fruit to open, and the balancing acids to give the wine a tight core. It’s a very polished and appealing balance of forward, approachable fruit married to more elegant, ageworthy tannins and acids.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 91