A wine I rarely see, but which can be outstanding, is Pride Mountain’s Chardonnay Vintner’s Select Mountaintop Vineyard. Made from a one-acre parcel and put through full malolactic, the 2005 exhibits plenty of minerality in its lemon oil, orange blossom, apple skin, and brioche-filled perfume and flavors. Medium to full-bodied with excellent acidity as well as impressive depth, it should provide plenty of pleasure over the next 3-4 years. Previously recommended: 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (96+), 2002 Reserve Claret (97+).Tel. (707) 963-4949; Fax (707) 963-6039

Big, big, big. Make that huge, huge, huge. This Chard rocks. It’s done up in the grand Burgundian way, but all the bells and whistles can’t put a dent in the fruit, which is just, well, big and huge. Mangoes, papayas, pineapple custard, peach pie, macaroon, gingersnap cookie, vanilla fudge, buttered toast, all brightened with coastal acidity. Chardonnay just doesn’t get any richer than this.——S.H.(3/1/2007)—— 95