The 2008 Chablis Les Clos – with, at 30%, half again as much barrel exposure as Long-Depaquit’s Vaudesir, Blanchots, or Moutonne – displays distinctively oaky notes of lanolin and vanilla as well as an overtly lactic note, all of which somewhat awkwardly attempt to integrate themselves with chalk, toasted nuts, and citrus. Chalk and white pepper offer mineral notes impressively extending an as yet somewhat austere and bifurcated finish. This has a long way to go to fully display the class of its origins, and hopefully it will do so over the next 6-8 years. The Long-Depaquit 2008 grand crus were bottled already in January, though had I not known this I might have been tempted to ascribe their firmness and at times somewhat muted flavors in April to post-bottling shock. Seemingly aware of their potential for austerity, Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot indicated that he quite actively worked the lees of his young 2008s. Various importers, including Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515 and Bayfield Importing, Long Island, NY (718) 482-0200