Medium red. Knockout soil-driven aromas and flavors of raspberry, spices, smoked meat, flint, mocha and porcini; I could easily have guessed Morey-Saint-Denis grand cru. Fat, smoky and sweet in the mouth but not at all over the top. Thanks to its lovely acid/tannin spine, the finish turns classically dry and suave, and shows excellent lift. Very sophisticated pinot.

Gibbston is the coolest of Central Otago’s subregions, and this wine reflects that in its delicate floral and herbal notes, even a touch of rhubarb. But there’s also ample cherry fruit and a wonderfully lacy, silky texture. Long and crisp on the finish. Best from 2012–2018.——J.C.(6/1/2010)—— 91