This stainless-steel fermented wine, from several different Willamette Valley vineyards, reaches a surprising 15.5% alcohol, and tastes like it. There is a sharpness to the flavors that, despite the wine’s being somewhat chilled, comes across as alcoholic heat. It’s varietal and tastes of fresh fruit, but has some high-toned volatility as well.——P.G.(2/1/2008)—— 86