The 2009 Merlot Four Vineyards spent 20 months in 40% new French oak. This purple wine’s nose is currently dominated by its oak. Aside from that, it reveals plenty of spice, layered fruit, and enough structure to evolve for several years. If the oak integrates, it will ultimately merit an outstanding score. If I were forced to name a single Washington winery offering the best value across the entire range of their portfolio, it might well be Arbor Crest. I made that statement one year ago and these new releases only reinforce my view.Tel. (509) 927-9463; www.arborcrest.com

Tart and bright, with an almost-jammy mix of raspberry and strawberry preserves, this concentrated, fruit-powered Merlot overdelivers for the price. Along with the luscious fruit are darker streaks of iron, coffee grounds and char, all in a classy, well-designed, four-vineyard blend.——P.G.(12/15/2011)—— 91