The 2009 échézeaux Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with a deep-pitched bouquet of wild berries and plums mingled with peonies, exotic spices and hints of wood smoke. Full-bodied, deep and complete, with velvety tannins and an enveloping core of fruit, it's sumptuous but serious, with lively acids and a long, resonant finish. This is a concentrated, youthfully muscular échézeaux that is still a few years away from showing all its cards.