Weingut von Hovel Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany

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Fresh quince and lime on the nose of von Kunow’s 2008 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett lead to a lush and surprisingly soft palate feel with dominance of apple and quince, but the finish here rallies to a refreshing and tingling projection of citrus zest, lemon, fresh ginger, and stone. I would plan to enjoy this over the next 4-6 years. The inherent delicacy of 2008 and its efficacious acidity that in principle permits the promotion of residual sugar and low finished alcohol, would seem to have been right up Eberhard von Kunow’s alley. That said, he professed satisfaction with a vintage in which he finished picking by the end of October and bottled no wine above Spatlese, “because,” as he put it, “we have been so spoiled by recent years, why try to stretch just to produce another Auslese?” Furthermore, Von Kunow performed de-acidified both in must and young wines, insisting that even so, the pH levels in 2008 remained relatively low and the percentage of tartaric acid high, so that the wines would remain very stable in bottle and possessed of liveliness and cut.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463

An austere version, with apple, spice and intense slate aromas and flavors, followed by a stony finish. Reserved now, yet expressive of both vintage and site. Best from 2012 through 2020. 600 cases made.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add