The 2004 Aglianico del Taburno Diomede has acquired gorgeous depth in bottle. Leather, spices and licorice are some of the notes that flow from this generous wine. Readers who want to taste an Aglianico with a bit of complexity from aging will find much to admire here. This is a very complete wine that is showing beautifully today. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Ocone this year. The whites in particular offer tons of varietal character and sheer personality for very modest sums. All of the fruit is farmed according to biodynamic principles. The whites are all unoaked.Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Diomede is a plusher, chewier expression of Aglianico with background notes of vanilla and sweet spice that peek between dominant aromas of blackberry and cassis. Like other expressions of this tannic grape, what distinguishes this wine is its firm structure that should be paired to fatty meat or succulent steak.——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 89