Though Washington is rarely recognized for its Gewurztraminers, the grape does exceptionally well here, and Celilo in particular has become a treasured hunting ground for winemakers specializing in the grape. This one is a gem: spicy and off-dry, it expands across the palate with authority and precision. Rather than sweetly floral, it leans toward flavors that are sweetly grassy, but lets pretty rose petal highlights fill in the back of the palate.——P.G.(12/1/2007)—— 89