Dark in color, with lots of tar and sweet tobacco character. Full-bodied, with a light herbal character, silky tannins and a medium finish. Slightly disappointing for this estate. Best after 2007. 12,500 cases made. -JS

Brane-Cantenac’s natural elegance, at the heart of Margaux, doesn’t seem to have survived 2003 as well as some other properties, despite the initial favorable impression at barrel tasting time. That is to say that the fruit is very generous, juicy almost, but its ripeness seems out of proportion to the soft tannins and sweet aftertaste. Other current vintages, particularly 2001 and 2004, have been better. Imported by Diageo Chateau & Estates.——R.V.(5/1/2006)—— 89