Rockpile, a mountainy region in Dry Creek Valley, has given in this warm vintage a big young Syrah. Dry and smooth, it bursts with enormously ripe cherry flavors, but also is very tannic. It’s high in alcohol, a potential fault, but something in the acid-tannin structure keeps it balanced, and even elegant. Best now and for the next few years.——S.H.(8/1/2007)—— 91