Surprisingly, the 2004 Impulsivo, which comes from a cooler vintage, is almost over-the-top decadent and ripe, with tons of sweet, chocolate-covered fruit, licorice, herbs and spice soaring from the glass. Coming from a scant 0.8 tons per acre, it’s full-bodied, decadent, sweetly fruited and massive. Those favoring delicate and light-weight aromas and flavors need not apply.