A new wine in Gesellman’s portfolio (and not yet released) the 2005 Blaufrankisch Hochberc originates in a single well-situated parcel in the Hochberg (spelled in local fashion rather than high German on the label) planted less than 20 years ago with a small-berried local selection. It was only bottled in May of last year, having been fermented and aged for most of the roughly 30 month interim in 500-liter barrels. Dried tomatoes, raw beef, and tart black raspberries with strongly saline, iodine, and peppery overlays give this bright, juicy, rather lean wine the aspect of a cross between Pinot Noir and Syrah. While its tannins are faintly drying in the finish, there is a refreshing if tart fruit character here that will serve admirably in a variety of circumstances over (I’m guessing here) 2-3 years. Albert Gesellmann – much influenced by the time he spent in California and South Africa in the mid-1990s – makes no apologies for wanting to produce powerful red wines. I have found a few of those that receive accolades within Austria somewhat overwrought and superficially sweet and oaky, although there is no question that the underlying material is concentrated. The Gesellmanns were among Burgenland’s pioneers with Cabernet and Merlot – some of their Bordelaise vines having recently reached a 25th birthday – but in recent years interest here as elsewhere in Mittelburgenland has been focused more on the traditional Blaufrankisch, on blends with Zweigelt and St. Laurent, and on Pinot Noir. The Gesellmanns are not among those with experimental plots of Syrah, although to taste some of their wines, you might believe otherwise.Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620.
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