Where Vino Nobile grapes that don’t make the cut for the Riserva go, as the estate doesn’t produce a regular Vino Nobile, just a riserva. This perennial Best Buy combines crunchy, fresh cherry fruit with hints of caramel, coffee and chocolate. It’s a cheerful wine that should win Tuscany plenty of fans, at a great price. ——W.E.(8/1/2006)—— 85