The sweet 2005 Solalto offers candied orange peel, honey, burnt sugar and caramel in a full-bodied, somewhat oxidative style. Historically this is a wine that has shown a lot a variation from vintage to vintage. The 2005 comes across as slightly heavy-handed and lacking freshness. Sol Alto is made from late-harvested Sauvignon, Semillon and Traminer. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012.Proprietor Elisabetta Geppetti has been making terrific wines for some time, but she hit the bulls-eye in 2004 with her Saffredi. The rest of the wines in this line-up are convincing as well.Importer: Henriot Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605 6706

Solalto is a pretty dessert wine with a dark amber color and simple aromas of toasted almond, apricot honey, pine nut and maple syrup. The texture is thick and gritty in places and the wine delivers genuine and easygoing appeal. ——M.L.(12/15/2008)—— 87