Dorigo’s 2004 Pignolo di Buttrio reveals unusual complexity in this vintage. Sweet menthol, licorice and spice aromas waft out of the glass as this massive, imposing wine opens up. Graphite, coffee beans and sweet herbs emerge, adding further dimensions of complexity and nuance. Ultimately though, this is a wine whose balance favors an expression of sheer power and size, and within that context it is quite successful. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This venerable Friulian producer excels with their reds, particularly at the high end. Importer: Panebianco LLC, New York, NY; tel. (212) 685-7560