For a meatier, heavier bargain red, head south to the sun-drenched Puglia region. Canaletto sources fruit to make a wine that delivers bold fruit, black cherry, roasted espresso bean and moist earth. The wine is aged 12 months in oak to shape a softer wine accented by exotic spice, cinnamon and sandalwood. This is the kind of wine you want on a chilly winter evening at home in front of a roaring fire. ——M.L.(11/15/2006)—— 85