Isenhower Cellars, a 3,300-case Walla Walla winery, started in 1999. The winery purchases and blends grapes from a variety of AVAs. The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon “Batchelor’s Button” comes from a vineyard planted in 1972, ancient by Washington standards. The wine was barrel-fermented and aged in mostly new oak. Purple-colored, it exhibits a nose of pain grille, vanilla, pencil lead, spice box, and black currants. Supple-textured, it has excellent depth and concentration, gobs of round, sweet black fruits, and well-integrated tannins. Already revealing some complexity, this tasty Cabernet will have even more to offer with another 2-3 years in the cellar. Drink it through 2022. Tel. (509) 526-7896; www.isenhowercellars.com