The 1999 Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva Buon Consiglio emerges from the glass with dried cherries, licorice, fennel, dried herbs and crushed rose petals. The aromas and flavors are fairly advanced, yet the wine retains considerable sweetness, not to mention tons of minerality. The Buon Consiglio is all about textural finesse. It is already somewhat evolved and even a touch fragile at times. Ideally it is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Readers who enjoy traditionally made Nebbioli will delight in these wines from Ar.Pe.Pe, which is an acronym of sorts for founder Arturo Pelizzatti Perego. The Ar.Pe.Pe. wines capture the essence of what makes Valtellina a unique winemaking region. Even better, the estate releases many of these selections with a few years of bottle age, giving consumers the opportunity to drink perfectly stored wines with a measure of tertiary complexity. Importer: Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500