The 2004 Ode to Lorraine (the matriarch of the family) is a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Shiraz, and 16% Merlot. Opaque purple-colored, it offers an enticing nose of smoke, vanilla, cedar, spice box, cassis, and black currants. This leads to a structured wine with ripe, spicy black fruit flavors, good balance, and moderate length. It has enough structure to drink well for 10-12 years. Importer: John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection; www.eldertonwines.com.au

This blend of 57% Cabernet, 27% Shiraz and 16% Merlot is a barrel selection, named for the family matriarch. It’s amply oaked, roaring forth with smoke, toast and vanilla, but there’s also a tight core of mixed berry fruit and a long finish. Give it 2–3 years.——J.C.(11/1/2007)—— 91