From the oldest vineyard on Long Island comes this well-oaked wine. Fruit is missing from the bouquet, which has mint and spice but also nail polish and horsey notes. The flavors are on the weedy side, with tomato and sweet oak trying to cover. Still an okay wine, light-bodied and smooth, with high acidity. But definitely less ripe than better vintages. ——M.D.(12/1/2006)—— 83