The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley is the product of a vintage in which winter freeze decimated the Walla Walla AVA. It appears that Pepper Bridge was able to source some superior fruit as this Cabernet is singing. Dark ruby-colored, it emits a toasty nose of pencil lead, cassis, black currants and licorice. This is followed by a plush wine with gobs of spicy dark fruit, great balance, and a lengthy finish. It is more forward than its older Walla Walla cousin and should be ready for drinking by 2010. It should continue to provide pleasure through 2025. Tel. (509) 525-6502; www.pepperbridgewinery.com

The blend is classic Bordeaux—85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Malbec. It’s got grip and a sensuous mix of wild herb, black olive and mountain berry. There is plenty of acid to support it, and winemaker J-F Pellet has been pulling back on the new oak, so that newer releases of Pepper Bridge are more structured and tilting more toward a European sensibility, which is to say, ageworthy.——P.G.(5/1/2008)—— 92