Though it’s no blockbuster, this vintage still offers a charming bouquet of tea, smoke, menthol and cocoa. It’s light compared to most years, with black-cherry, soy and tobacco flavors. Closes soft yet bright, with mild tannins and acidity. Surprisingly decent for a wine of its age and the so-so vintage. Drink now.——W.E.(4/1/2002)—— 87