The 2006 Donna Lisa Riserva, the estate's top wine, is 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera aged in relatively new French oak barrels. I understand the temptation to give the most important wine lavish oak, but that is an approach that backfires here. The oak completely overwhelms the fruit and leaves the wine with hard tannins that aren't likely to ever resolve themselves. To be fair, the 2006 Donna Lisa was made before the arrival of oenologist Riccardo Cotarella. Still, the words 'simpler is better' have never been more true than they are here. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. Quality continues to improve at this venerable estate. The wines have become far more consistent since the arrival of oeonologist Riccardo Cotarella a few years back. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620