Made in a powerful, almost dry style with 12% alcohol, this is not a typical kabinett. The aromas boast admirably pure pear and pineapple scents, but the flavors show slaty, spicy complexity—this is much more than simply fruity. The texture is creamy and the lingering finish shows off more spice and stones. Might age, but it’s so impressive now, why wait?——J.C.(8/1/2008)—— 91