The most interesting wine in this group is the 2007 Syrah Estate. It displays more fruit than the others and is made in an earthier, more elegant, somewhat French style. Dark ruby, with notes of tapenade, pepper, and damp earth, it is soft, round, and best drunk over the next several years. Tel. (707) 433-7209; Fax (707) 433-9408

Here’s a soft, spicy, gentle Syrah meant for drinking now with roast beef, pork and chicken dishes. Sausages will be particularly nice. The wine brims with berries, cherries, pepper, mocha, violets and sandalwood.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 87