Loewen’s 2009 Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling trocken Alte Reben 1896 – from Bruno Schmitt’s vines planted in that year (over whose large font inscription the rest of the wine’s label is superimposed) – displays less sheer power and intensity than its immediate predecessor and inaugural vintage, but Loewen takes that as a good sign, having intentionally tried to handle even these ancient vines and their soil so as to slow down their vigor and metabolic rate and to pick later at lower sugar. Winter pear, lightly-caramelized turnip, and white raspberry appear are subtly-tinged with salt and crushed stone and underlain by nut oils and a savory minerality akin to lobster shell reduction that left me salivating uncontrollably and panting for more. It’s clear that these two initial “1896” bottlings represent the beginning of a very distinguished line, and I suspect that if there is completely dry Mosel Riesling being crafted today that will be worth following for two decades, this will have served as exhibit A. Karl-Josef Loewen’s general approach – to as he puts it “make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches” – fits the relatively generous 2009 vintage well in principle, provided however – as he is quick to point out – one let the fruit hang long enough. “The temptation is strong – and it’s common on the Mosel – to treat (read: charcoal-fine) the botrytized musts,” notes Loewen, “be we didn’t do anything this year, and I really think that was the wisest decision I have ever made.” (Incidentally, the trio of upper-Pradikat wines of this collection for which suggested retail prices are not noted will, according to importer Terry Theise, be made available in the U.S. for any merchants whose fancy they take.)Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300