The black cherry, spice, pepper, and rose-scented 2002 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques does not require any assistance. Big, lush, energetic, and elegant, its medium to full-bodied personality coats the taster’s palate with a myriad of spicy black fruits. Majestically ripe cherries, blackberries, roasting spices, and stones can be found in its complex flavor profile as well as in its long, sweet, supple finish. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

As so often with wines from Gevrey, this is huge and structured. It is packed with firm, dense, solid fruit, but tempered with ripe tannins. ——R.V.(9/1/2004)—— 94