But let’s start with the noteworthy 2011 Erre Punto Blanco, produced from Viura (70%) and Malvasia Riojana grapes from over 50-year-old vineyards planted on argilo-calcareous soils fermented and aged for eight months in new French oak barrels. It’s quite pale-colored, very aromatic with a leesy, creamy nose and an explosion of star anise, fennel and aniseed intermixed with notes of white flowers and a smoky hint. The palate shows great balance and good integration of the oak, with clean, pure flavors that linger in your mouth and a remarkable finish. A very good young, modern white Rioja already developing some complexity and classical personality that should increase with time in bottle. 12,000 bottles produced. Drink 2014-2018.
Fernando Remirez de Ganuza, who never stops inventing things (a sorting table that washes the grapes, four wheels to rotate one barrel and stir the lees), only had three new wines to show this year. But I also had a mini-vertical of the as yet unreleased white Reserva (but two vintages have already been reviewed here!) which has a much more classical profile than any of his other wines. I’m looking forward to the wines coming onto the market and following their evolution, as I think the 2010 is great and should develop beautifully. The first vintage to be released will be 2008, but only 1,800 bottles exist. I had an interesting conversation with Ganuza and he reminded me of one thing I always say about Burgundy: the most important thing is the producer. When I say that, most people look at me and say: “How can you say that? Burgundy is the essence of terroir, the place on earth where the concept has been most studied, best understood and defined!” It is indeed, and I completely agree, but the vineyard, the Grand Cru has the potential to produce world class wines, but it’s up to the producer to realize that potential – or kill it! That’s why, yes, the vineyards, the terroir are extremely important, but human intervention is key. This is all because one of Fernando’s points was that people say “Wine is produced in the vineyard,” and that’s not really true. The vineyard gives you the raw material, the potential, but someone at the winery has to realize that potential and there, every small detail counts and makes a difference. Anyway, going back to Remirez de Ganuza, the two reds that I tasted were superb.
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