The 1998 MEGAS OENOS CABERNET-SAUVIGNON / SAINT GEORGE is a small step up on the 1997, showing a touch more oxidation, perhaps, on the nose, but richer fruit. It is a bit weedy, with heavy tertiary aromas. It, too, is a wine that has reached its limits, more or less, but still has something to offer. Drink now. George Skouras is one of Greece’s stalwarts, having studied oenology in Burgundy, founded his winery in 1986 and released his well known “Megas Oenos” brand in 1988, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (usually around 20%) and one of Greece’s most successful indigenous reds, Agiorgitiko (usually around 80%, from old vines dating back to the 1930s and 1940s, says Skouras). Note that Skouras translates Agiorgitiko into “Saint George” on his labels. All of the Megas Oenos wines are unfiltered. Skouras may use some Cabernet Sauvignon, but his elegant wines remind me more of Burgundy. Some library wines are included in these reviews to demonstrate the evolution of the Megas Oenos brand, going from a light, very low alcohol wine to a riper, more modern wine with better balance and depth. The early examples are fun and often very well crafted, but the current bottlings, still quite elegant, seem more likely to excel.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel: (773) 549-6211
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