The 1993 Tokay Pinot Gris Heimbourg reveals noticeable botrytis scents in the exotic, honeyed nose. Slightly off-dry, but extremely powerful and intense, and almost oily in its richness, this 14% alcohol Tokay should drink well for 12-15 years. No one produces such dry, full-bodied, creamy, unctuously-textured Tokay Pinot Gris as the top Alsatian wineries. Tokay Pinot Gris is considered to be the Montrachet of Alsace. And they should be as many of these wines make a mockery of most Montrachets.The 1992 and 1993 wines reviewed in this issue are the wines of a genius. Importers: Wine Markets International, Inc., Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 525-1524