From Apulia, in the Italian heel, a blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Rosso. Long a supermarket favorite, the brand has always been rustic and powerful, but flavorful and inexpensive. Those are still its virtues. Big aromas of wild cherries and tar, with powerful berry flavors, it’s dry and clean, the perfect gulp for barbecue. ——S.H.(7/1/2001)—— 85