Forey's 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Les St.-Georges (raised in all new barrels) combines lightly-cooked cherry, brown spices, and cocoa powder reminiscent of the corresponding Perrieres with red meat and crushed stone, with these carnal and mineral flavor dimensions becoming insistently persistent in the finish. There is in fact a tactile and illusive, peaty, somehow ore-like mineral dimension here that reminds me a bit of an Urgestein Gruner Veltliner or a schistic Roussillon red, analogies I can only hope won't be treated as sacrilegious or in anyway denigrating to a red Burgundy. This combines flattering youthful richness of fruit with verve and proportionality – consistent with particularly outstanding 2006 results with this site at other addresses – and should be worth following for at least 6-8 years. Regis Forey insists that only negligible triage was necessary on his 2006 crop, and in addition to the advantages of lees contact conferred by protracted and relatively late malolactic transformation, he also did some active stirring to fatten the young wines. Finished alcohol levels in this collection vary between what appear on the basis of taste to be an ideal 12.5%-13.5%, and with the exception of an uncooperative portion of his village Vosne-Romanee, none of these wines was filtered.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Cassis, plum, and blackberry wreathed in wood smoke on the nose of Forey's 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Perrieres follow onto a richly-textured and sweetly ripe palate dusted with cocoa powder and brown spices. Right now, this is all about opulence of fruit (to a degree few 2006s can boast), with any overt mineral character sublimated. Five of six barriques here were new, but neither is oak in evidence per se. The tannin is fine-grained, and sufficient fresh fruit edge is maintained for the wine's long finish to stimulate. I would plan to enjoy this over the next 4-5 years, though perhaps as its sweet, plush folds of fruit part there will be further complexity and grounds to continue holding it. Regis Forey insists that only negligible triage was necessary on his 2006 crop, and in addition to the advantages of lees contact conferred by protracted and relatively late malolactic transformation, he also did some active stirring to fatten the young wines. Finished alcohol levels in this collection vary between what appear on the basis of taste to be an ideal 12.5%-13.5%, and with the exception of an uncooperative portion of his village Vosne-Romanee, none of these wines was filtered. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990