Originating in the Steeger St.-Jost (although Josts sometimes source this bottling from other sites) the 2008 Riesling Spatlese trocken Devon S displays even to the nose the wet Devonian slate for which it is named. Hints of smokiness, green tea, lime peel, and peach kernel also pique the olfactors, and follow on a firm but polished, and juicy, rather than too-austere, palate. This finishes with a welcome sense of lift as well as refreshment. I’d plan to enjoy it over the next 4-5 years. Young Cecilia Jost is taking charge of the cellar here. In 2008, though, she was tied up with a commitment to harvest in Austria, so Peter and Linde Jost were still calling the shots. Given the ripening tendencies of the Jost’s great, steep, near-monopole Hahn (which is the reason Josts have now planted a site high above it to try to get back to real Kabinett) as well as the lees contact that Peter Jost favors, the 2008 vintage offered a possible antidote to high alcohol, lack of transparency or massiveness that are occasionally exhibited at this address, while permitting a later harvest than Josts have “enjoyed” (assuming you consider that the right word) in some years, lasting until November 10.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300