This wine emanates from the home estate of Italy's talented oenologist, Riccardo Cotarella. The 1998 Poggio dei Gelsi Est! Est! Est! is the finest wine I have ever tasted from this appellation. It is a medium-bodied white with aromas of dried peaches, flowers, and spice. There is actually some tannin to the wine's structure, however, the reason most readers will enjoy it is for its brash display of honeyed tropical fruits, melon, and subtle spicy oak. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620