The 2008 Barolo wafts from the glass with freshly cut flowers, red berries, mint and licorice. This weightless, gracious Barolo impresses for its total class and elegance. It is an overachieving, superb entry-level wine from Marco Parusso. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Marco Parusso is one of the most adventurous producers in Piemonte. Never content, Parusso is willing to take more risks in the pursuit of greatness than the vast majority of his colleagues. A visit here is always fascinating because so many things are in motion. In recent years, Parusso’s biggest experiments have been with whole cluster fermentation, which is common in Burgundy, but rarely seen in Piemonte. The 2008 harvest was one of the latest on record. The fruit was brought in between October 15 and the end of the month. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898