This 100% Sauvignon Blanc dessert bottling is fermented in new French oak, and is aged one year on lees. Rich honey, peach and nectarine fruit could have rendered this wine too sweet and sloppy; instead, its light, gravelly texture keeps it from being too cloying. Honey, mustard grains and light talc on the nose, and a nutty, creme brulee-like finish add elegance where, again, candy could otherwise have reigned.——W.E.(8/1/2002)—— 90