The Audoin 2008 Marsannay Clos de Jeu offers chalky mineral notes that heighten its sense of density and fine-grained tannins, together with a stimulatingly tart melange of blackberry and red currant. This boasts admirable persistence if not the allure or charm of the corresponding Clos de Roy. But it gained considerable, somehow crystalline mineral nuance, yet at the same time greater surface polish, as it took on air. I would plan on giving it 2-3 years in bottle and count on its delivering over at least the next 6-8. Cyril Audoin – who joined his mother and father (the domaine’s namesake) in 2000 – is impassioned about demonstrating what he believes is the largely unrecognized potential of Marsannay, and now that I have caught up with his wines, I can confidently state that I know of no one other than Philippe Roty who is more deliciously or profoundly succeeding in that demonstration, which means that given the modest prices asked for them, these wines represent some of Burgundy’s better values. Furthermore, this estate’s nearly 40 acres of largely old vines (or vines grafted over to selections massales) from a smorgasbord of distinctive sites makes possible striking demonstrations of terroir in action (though that very abundance also meant I was not able to taste quite the entire range in the time available to me.) “I’m lucky,” says the younger Audoin, “that my parents set a model for making very classic wines,” which for him means inter alia no fining or filtration, a single racking, and an elevage of 18 months, the last 6 normally in tank, from which I tasted the 2008s early this year. (The Audoin whites, too – on which I’ll report later – are impressive.) Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040

The Audoin 2008 Marsannay Clos de Jeu offers chalky mineral notes that heighten its sense of density and fine-grained tannins, together with a stimulatingly tart melange of blackberry and red currant. This boasts admirable persistence if not the allure or charm of the corresponding Clos de Roy. But it gained considerable, somehow crystalline mineral nuance, yet at the same time greater surface polish, as it took on air. I would plan on giving it 2-3 years in bottle and count on its delivering over at least the next 6-8. Cyril Audoin – who joined his mother and father (the domaine’s namesake) in 2000 – is impassioned about demonstrating what he believes is the largely unrecognized potential of Marsannay, and now that I have caught up with his wines, I can confidently state that I know of no one other than Philippe Roty who is more deliciously or profoundly succeeding in that demonstration, which means that given the modest prices asked for them, these wines represent some of Burgundy’s better values. Furthermore, this estate’s nearly 40 acres of largely old vines (or vines grafted over to selections massales) from a smorgasbord of distinctive sites makes possible striking demonstrations of terroir in action (though that very abundance also meant I was not able to taste quite the entire range in the time available to me.) “I’m lucky,” says the younger Audoin, “that my parents set a model for making very classic wines,” which for him means inter alia no fining or filtration, a single racking, and an elevage of 18 months, the last 6 normally in tank, from which I tasted the 2008s early this year. (The Audoin whites, too – on which I’ll report later – are impressive.)Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040

This offers fresh cherry fruit up front, leading to sweet, spicy oak on the finish. Goes from tasty to tart in 10 seconds, with a crisp finish for now. Best from 2014 through 2023. 166 cases made. –BS