The 2007 Merlot Montiano is a perplexing wine. The fruit is bold, ripe and primary, but perhaps too much so, as elements of heat and alcohol are prominent. The Montiano reveals a round, creamy finish, but here, too, there is a slight element of woodiness to the tannins that detracts from the balance. Both bottles I tasted were disappointing. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. Proprietor Riccardo Cotarella is a fountain of energy. Cotarella is best known for his numerous consulting projects, but in recent years he has devoted considerable attention to reviving some of the indigenous and obscure varieties found in Lazio and Umbria. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620