The 2009 Falerno del Massico Bianco is a more focused and mineral-driven white than the Greco di Tufo. Jasmine, peaches and the essence of crushed rocks are some of the nuances that emerge from this taut, wiry white. Once again, the wine’s balance and poise are first-rate. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. These three superb whites were among the best under $25 wines I tasted this year. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Made from a very old clone of Falanghina (a grape whose history spans back to the Roman Empire), this bright and tonic wine bursts open with green notes of kiwi, lime and freshly cut grass. Those background citrus and white mineral aromas would make it perfect to pair with lightly fried calamari. ——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 87