Apples, peaches and pears are evident in this surprisingly full, almost fleshy Chardonnay. A portion was barrel-fermented, and the flavors of toast and tobacco are relatively moderate and well-integrated. The wine has some sweetness along with the crisp fruit, but without the exaggerated vanilla flavors of many cheap Chardonnays. This is the best from Hogue in a long while.——P.G.(12/31/2008)—— 88