Ratzenberger Bacharacher Wolfshohle Grosses Gewachs

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The 2007 Bacharacher Wolfshohle Riesling Grosses Gewachs displays a penetrating, striking – and some may say “off-putting” – nose of lemon zest, brine, sweat, and musk. Salt-tinged bright lemon and dried peaches inform a slightly strident but undeniably sappy, energetic palate. It would be hard to imagine two more strikingly different personalities from the same grower and vintage, and from nearly neighboring sites. For now at least, this Wolfshohle cries out “See me, I’m a Grosses Gewachs!” but the St. Jost seems to impart the bigger message. The bitter-sweet, voluminous, oily-rich 2006 Wolfshohle Grosses Gewachs – which fermented for over 13 months – is loaded with persistent white peach and walnut oil, easily at a quality level with this year’s St. Jost. Jochen Ratzenberger Jr. expressed delight with his 2007s, and even though I’m straining to recollect a vintage with which he wasn’t pleased, the truth is, he and his father comprise one of the most consistently high-performance teams in German viticulture, and their 2007 collection is consistently impressive. Both of the Ratzenbergers’ 2007 vintage Grosse Gewachse – in what has been fairly typical behavior – finished fermenting only in mid-August, and were immediately bottled with barely enough time to appear at the annual Berlin Presentation of Germany’s collective wines in this genreImported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644