Young, jumpy and slightly candied, but that’s just fine given the price range it’s playing in. To get old-vines Garnacha for a song is not uncommon, yet this wine’s thick, fruity palate goes beyond the norm. And with a round mouthfeel built on light-framed tannins, it’s easygoing as can be. Drink now, but don’t put it under the microscope.——M.S.(4/1/2009)—— 86