Willi Brundlmayer Gelber Muskateller Trockenbeerenauslese

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Expect it to remain compelling for at least another 15 years, but don't miss out on enjoying some soon, too! Brundlmayer's 2009 Gelber Muskateller Trockenbeerenauslese happily has a lot in common with the corresponding Gruner Veltliner. Apricot preserves; orange and blood orange liqueur; and vanilla cream seduce the nose, then inform a nearly weightless yet expansive and custardy palate that preserves such amazing sheer juiciness and exhibits such perfect high-wire balancing of sugar, acid, and extract, that I defy you to spit it out! Like its Gruner Veltliner counterpart, this is astonishing wine, even considering the many nobly sweet successes that this grower has racked-up in past years. I expect it will remain supernal for the better part of two decades, but do not make the mistake of depriving yourself of the experience in the near term as well. Despite the relatively short crop in 2010, Brundlmayer notes that volumes were not inordinately impacted at the upper level of his portfolio, and that he expects as usual, if not more so, to take time with the release of the top Gruner Veltliner. (Brundlmayer is also among the very few Austrian growers to - largely for the benefit of his foreign customers - re-release selected wines after they have had a number of years in bottle; and he releases virtually no reds until they have enjoyed significant bottle age.) For now though, 2010 seems to be a collection that reflects its vintage's challenges and in which Riesling from the Heiligenstein is clearly the star. Brundlmayer's 2009s - the whites, at least - are more uniformly excellent. (He won-t begin showing me 2009 reds until next June.) What's more, some sort of miracle, the like of which I have never before witnessed at this address, seems to have taken place under the auspices of noble rot (and those sweet 2009s should come our way in the next year or two). The high quality and fascination of Brundlmayer's diverse sparkling cuvees is worth once again noting, even if I have omitted publishing detailed notes and small-lot designations for what are always officially non-vintage wines. It's also worth singling-out an all"2007 cuvee of Pinot and Chardonnay with a bit of Gruner Veltliner that was bottled Extra Brut "-though believe, me," notes Brundlmayer, "we try-out nearly every sort of dosage and were surprised that this performed better without" - a wine whose combination of herbal, vegetal, nutty, and mineral tones offers subtly delicious -food- for thought.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300