he 2004 Syrah Collezione De Marchi, an inky violet, is less expressive in its aromatics although it shows a generous quality in its dark, jammy fruit. I may have caught it at an awkward stage, but it appears slightly less convincing than the 2003. That said, its pedigree is unmistakable Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Various American importers including: Petit Pois, Merion, PA; tel. (856) 608-9644; Carolina Wine Company, Norwood, MA; tel. (781) 278-2000; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477; The Country Vintner, Louisa, VA; tel. (804) 784-2886; Grape Expectation Inc., Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 412-5969; Bommarito Wines, Saint Louis, MO; tel. (314) 961-8996; Connoiseur Wines, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 561-8705

This is a good example of Syrah’s potential in Tuscany, giving off generous notes of bright cherry and boysenberry followed by toasted nuts, tobacco and smoked ham. This version has a particularly attractive finale, which is bursting with balsam and menthol freshness.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 91