The 2004 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule A.P. #1 is an auction lot, picked in December under the influence of botrytis as well as frost. But here – unlike in the Spatlese A.P. #2 – we’re dealing with a single parcel and picking, that exhibited both of those influences. Tart yellow plum and plum preserve mingle with honey, lemon, and brown spices in the ominously smoky nose, and then on the palate, where a bracing, almost raucous dynamic is set up. Tart apple skin notes, pungent lemon zest, and slightly sharp botrytis spice certainly all add interest, but the result is, at least as yet, not entirely harmonious. Plum preserve, apple jelly, brine, and fresh lemon dominate in a finish that continues to send out high-pitched Eiswein-like signals after the rest have died away. Time will have to tell, but there is no denying the wine’s sheer concentration or fascination.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463