Loewen’s 2005 Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Kabinett feinherb smells of pumpkin or winter squash (strangely typical for this wine from a sand and slate soil) with nut oil, citrus, and floral nuances. On the palate, a bright, slightly tart lemon character and high-toned herbal essences overlie a waxy, chalky, squash-, baked apple- and root vegetable-saturated base. Juicy, clear fruit and salty, chalky mineral notes extend the satisfying, dry-tasting (despite 18 grams residual sugar) finish of this lovely and no doubt versatile wine. Amazingly, Loewen relates that a quarter or more of the fruit for this wine – harvested in November – and indeed for nearly all of his dry wines, was botrytised. (The Kabinett bottling with higher residual sugar from another portion of the Klostergarten was diffuse in character and evidently downright uncooperative on the day I tasted it.) Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Alte Reben ($ unknown; 84+?), 2005 Detzemer Maximiner Klosterlay Riesling “Christopher’s Wine” ($ unknown; 85+?), 2005 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese (unavailable; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300