The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets is first class all the way. It shows off striking inner perfume, tension and transparency. Smoke, ash and crushed rocks are some of the notes that develop in the glass, adding complexity to the ripe yellow stone fruits. The weightless, pointed finish is bristling with energy and sheer class. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Richard Fontaine began harvesting the 2009s on September 6. The malos were fairly quick and were completed by April 2010. The wines were racked in June and bottled in early September. Perhaps it is inevitable with a total of ten different Chassagne premier crus in the lineup, but in this vintage not all of the wines are markedly different from each other. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Jeffrey Wellburn Selections, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (818) 780-4446