Pira's 2004 Barolo Vigna Rionda (aged in 100% new French oak) opens with captivating aromatics that lead to a silky-textured palate of ripe red fruit. This medium to full-bodied Barolo offers exquisite purity and delineation with finessed tannins and an extraordinary sense of harmony. It shut down quickly in the glass and will require patience, but this is a stunningly pure Rionda in the making. It's nice to see Giampaolo Pira bounce back with this gorgeous Rionda after his disappointing 2003. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411